renwax - RENAISSANCE WAX

[Robert P.]

Yes, I have applied Renaissance Wax over zinc pest AFTER I have cleaned and thoroughly dried by badge(s). I believe the Ren Wax will block any moisture from getting to the badge again because of it's micro layer it leaves on the badge, so with the absence of moisture the zinc pest 'should not' continue to worsen. To give an accurate assessment on how well this product has worked for me I cannot because I live in a very low humidity environment, an avearge of 6% humidity. I see no spreading or worsening of the zinc pest spots on the badge(s), so I 'presume' it is working. Again, this could be due to the environment I keep the badges in. Personally, I like the idea of shielding the badges with the thin layer of Ren Wax because I know it keeps unwanted moisture out, and this is all important in checking the spreading of zinc pest. And, I feel that using Ren Wax BEFORE cleaning and drying a badge would trap the existing moisture within, causing the zinc rot to continue. Some would argue this point because with the lack of oxygen there would be no further growth. This 'may' be the case, but I personally feel safer applying the wax after I have cleaned and dried the piece. BTW, it's a wonderful product for dagger blades. Stu shared this with me, and it really does work well. As far as applying the wax to badges or crosses with good existing finishes, I hesitate in doing this. For me, it is only for sealing moisture out on pieces that have existing problems, or that have no remaining finish to prevent zinc pest from forming. I don't think I would want to apply it over the nice silver frosting on a mint IAB or GAB. I leave well-enough alone. My thoughts...

Robert

[Robert P.]

The back of the S&L Heersflak I am concerned with...

Robert

[WhitePhantom]

how did u remove the zinc pest before applying renwax to those badges?

[Stahlhelm]

how did u remove the zinc pest before applying renwax to those badges?

I would also like to know that.

Chris

[SwordFish]

Sudsy amonia, either hommade or premixed and a soft toothbrush will remove the pester. Then dry and hit her with Renwax. I've hand incredible results with this meathod.

[Robert P.]

how did u remove the zinc pest before applying renwax to those badges?

I carefully scrape away as much of the oxidation as possible with something softer than the badge material to prevent any scratches or marks, i.e. a wooden scraper, a wooden toothpick, a firm plastic toothbrush, etc. I've seen badges that have excessive zinc 'rot' (I don't buy these), that would obviously see damage to the detailing of the badge if the zinc pest was 'chased' to it's source. I've heard members say that they just apply Vaseline to the area without any cleanup, and hope for the best. With the minor surface zinc pest I have on my badge(s), a little cleanup with a wooden scraper or toothbrush, a good degreasing wash and a thorough hot air blower drying before Ren Wax is all that I do.

On tombak badges and EK frames I've scraped away green vergritus (sp) and applied Ren Wax, with good luck. If the entire frame of the EK is overtaken with the vergritis I scrape away as much of the corrosion as possible without making the cleanup noticeable. You have to be careful not to remove the very delicate patina in doing this. Then after the cleanup is complete I apply a thin coating of the Ren Wax. And, I have not seen the rebirth of the vergritis on the cross I treated this way.

Robert

[Robert P.]

Sudsy amonia, either hommade or premixed and a soft toothbrush will remove the pester. Then dry and hit her with Renwax. I've hand incredible results with this meathod.

Ammonia, NH3, is void of oxygen in it's purest, refined and unstable condition - and is starving for and hunting the oxygen molecule to balance itself. Nitrogen and Hydrogen molecules. I'm assuming this premixed solution you are using is detergent based since there are 'scrubbing bubbles'. A degreaser at best. Sounds like a good cleanup solution. I've heard of others using acetone as an agent to degrease the base metal. A mild soap in hot water is all I use to degrease human oils, then hot air dry.

Robert

[stuart a.]

very good thread thanks everyone for the info,if anyone in the u.k is interested i found a company that sells the 200ml can of renwax for £11-75 inc postage unfortunetly they will not sell single tins outside the u,k
stu

[Steinar]

I have a really nice zinc wounded badge in silver, I don't think its any zinc pest on this badge, but I wanna keep it as safe as possible..

if I use ren wax, will the silver finish still be there after the renwax is wiped off?
Im more afraid that the wipe itself will remove/damage the finish... do I need to worry if I wanna use ren wax on this badge? 1 layer is enough probably, but is it hard to get just that 1 layer off?

hope you guys know what I mean
Thanks

[Robert P.]

I have a really nice zinc wounded badge in silver, I don't think its any zinc pest on this badge, but I wanna keep it as safe as possible..

if I use ren wax, will the silver finish still be there after the renwax is wiped off?
Im more afraid that the wipe itself will remove/damage the finish... do I need to worry if I wanna use ren wax on this badge? 1 layer is enough probably, but is it hard to get just that 1 layer off?

hope you guys know what I mean
Thanks

I know what you mean, Steinar, and I'd leave it the way it is. The best thing you can do for it is keep it dry. I don't know what effect the Ren Wax will have on the silver finish of the badge. It's not worth the chance applying it if it doesn't need it for zinc pest.

Rober.

[Steinar]

Thanks for the fast reply Robert. I can't see any pest on it, so I won't touch it

[Stahlhelm]

I'll jump in and agree. If it has no pest on it currently, I wouldn't touch it. Just control your humidity levels and keep an eye on the badge.

Chris

[Paul R.]

Soaking it or cleaning a medal with solvent can soften medal finishes, and can further produce other damage. Scraping will also compromise the finish and the entire medal. Remember the Ren Wax coating is only a tempory fix. The problem is only temparly masked. Zinc rust is not only a surface problem. It goes throught the medal composition. Yes, controlling your humidity will help a lot, but your method will not reverse the problem. Sooner or later it will be Baaaccccck! Museum conservators have found no 100% cure or reversal on zinc rust. Paul

[Stahlhelm]

[Steinar]

Hello, I just received an mm 44 EK2, and the core was DRIPPING wet with oil
Any good ideas?

the core ain't iron, but white-ish, some paint is gone...
why would the dealer send me a oil soaked cross

I need to pm him about that