Originally posted by Paul R.
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Edgar
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How much amount should I put on the blade? and How often the wax should be aplied on the dagger?
Edgar -
Edgar - For most cases I only apply renwax to the blade. If you have a wood grip that looks to be cracking, or has the mosaic glazing. Then I apply ren wax to the wood grip. Ren wax is a sealant and is ideal to use when the grip has the cracking appearence. I like to use it to keep moisture from going into the cracked wood grips. Remember ren wax on wood does not prevent wood rot, or stop wood beatles.
A little bit goes a long way. Do Not over apply.My ren wax can at work was purchased in 1995 it's only 1/2 gone.
We Spend A Lot of Money On Our Hobby. Spend A Few More Dollars To Preserve History!Last edited by Paul R.; 03-08-2008, 02:50 PM.Comment
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Thanks Paul. I have just one dagger. It is a KM dagger with celuloi grip, the blade is etchead. Made by Paul Weyernberg.Originally posted by Paul R. View Post
How to treat it? Once ageain, just the blade? (no the scabbard?)
EdgarComment
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Edgar:
I also only apply Ren-Wax to the blades of my daggers. All you need to do is wipe a small amount (a light coating will do) over the whole blade without at first rubbing it anymore than is necessary to coat it. An old cotton T-shirt will work fine for this. Give the Ren-Wax a couple of minutes to dry, and then wipe it off, so that there is no obvious trace of its presence. Once the wax is wiped off, the blade will, of course, look as if nothing is on it. However, the micro-thin layer of wax you want will, of course, remain for the blade's protection. Directions to this affect are also printed on the Ren-Wax container.
I've never before treated an etched-blade with Ren-Wax. However, I can say that I've never before had trouble with the Ren-Wax accumulating in (and being difficult to get out of) the maker's mark recesses and/or motto areas. I'm not sure if this would be a problem with etched blades or not, but I'm sure someone can tell you about that, soon enough. As far as using Semi-Chrome, that's another story. I'm sure that should be avoided, or at least surely used with extreme caution, on etched blades, as it will certainly be difficult to get out of recesses in the blade. That's just a word of extra caution, just in case you ever consider that.
Chris
Last edited by Stahlhelm; 03-09-2008, 11:41 AM.Comment
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Chris Great advice! I am not a huge fan of applying Ren Wax to an etched blades. Even though Ren Wax it's safe on blades. I haven't done enough research on Ren Wax and etching to endorse the idea. PaulComment
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I would agree that, without enough research, and considering all the intricate recesses on etched blades, even use of Ren-Wax on them would be best avoided.Originally posted by Paul R. View Post
Chris
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A friend of mine who is into WWI and Civil War swords applied Ren Wax to a Civil War etched sword. Two things appeared within 2 days of application. A discoloration in the etched areas and a disappearance of some of the etching. He claimed he applied Ren Wax as usual. Wiped off remained of Ren Wax with an old cotton dish cloth. This fella is a blade historian and a blade conservator. So I now he know what he is doing. Not sure as to what happened. Other conservators were contacted who know blades and they are totally puzzled. One fella had somewhat similar story. PaulComment
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Well, those are certainly some seriously scary results!Originally posted by Paul R. View Post
Now, I know for sure I won't be using Ren-Wax on any etched blades I may ever own. I'm sure glad I read this. However, just thinking of why Ren-Wax would have such an effect on etched blades, leaves me very puzzled. Again, it's something that I would never have guess, but something I'm surely now happy to know. It definitely saved some serious grief in the future, no doubt.
Thanks for that info!
I sure hope all other owners of etched blades happens to read this too.
Chris
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Chris. Remember that Ren Wax is a chemical. Even though it is relatively safe on most medals, and some wood, ceramics. We are thinking as the etching ages with time. It could be the etching itself, and the climate in which it is in that could aid in the change of color. It could be the blade metal also. It's one of those head scratcher.
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Yes, Paul. This stuff never ceases to make me scratch my head. As a matter of fact, I think I'm beginning to develop a bald spot from all the scratching.
Chris
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Thans Paul and Stahlhelm
I read in another forum that REN WAX should not (or must not), be used on etched blades, however it can still be used on the parts of the blade without etched taking care that you do not put it on the etched.
In that forum they also say that you (we), can use the Ren Wax on the whole dagger (grip, bronce scabbar, etc). Well, for sure I think when I get my ren wax I will never use it on the etched part of the blade.
No probem to use it on Damascus blades?
Regards
EdgarComment
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That's really good information to know.
Alot of collectors think Renwax is a panacia of sorts. It's not. When I initally began using Renwax, I thought it was the cats meow. Granted, it was doing a wonderful job on everything I applied it to...until I tried sake cups and sake bottles. Because of its petroleum base compound, I found it lifted hand painted kanji characters and designs off the sake cups and bottles.
Take heed of what fellow collectors have to say. It's a great product, but like anything else, it has its limitations. Generally speaking, you won't have problems applying it to saber/dagger blades (not blue pannel and so on), hilts, war badges, leather, wood, EKs, etc., etc. I guess the safest thing to do would be to ask fellow collectors about using it on an object your not sure of prior to applying it.
Good collecting,
TomComment
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One should be careful when handling edged weapons not to touch the blade with bare hands. This is proper and polite collector etiquette.
The reason being is that some folks body chemistry is much more acidic than others. This will cause damage to the blade by way of staining or corrosion. In some cases very, very quickly. In rare cases, folks having really corrosive body chemistry, will even cause stainless steel to discolor. So it is better to learn how to handle edged weapons properly from the start.
Instead of applying various chemical agents to any collectable why not just keep it dry and clean? Be careful how you handle it and make sure it is wiped down before being put away if you are in doubt. After all it survived quite well without any collector intervention for decades. Why needlessly mess with it?
Now if you realy feel the urge to do something ....................
Maybe taking a cue from Japanese sword collecting would be a better approach. A very thin application of clove oil on bare (nonplated) carbon steel blades should suffice to protect the blade from the elements when properly stored in it's original scabbard. Oh yeh...the scabbard's purpose IS to protect the blade as well as carry it.
This very light film of oil will remain viscous and will microscopicaly permiate the outer pores of the blade to protect it. The surface tension or adhesion of hardened finish such as wax when dried will not remain intact when the blade expands and contracts with climatic (ambiant temperature) changes.
Just some thoughts.
TonyAn opinion should be the result of thought, not a substitute for it.
"First ponder, then dare." von MoltkeComment
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If you put ANY kind of oil on a blade it will attract airborne dust particles. The next time you wipe down the blade you are rubbing it with oil that's contaminated with dirt which will act as an abrasive. Enough said.
JimComment
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Originally posted by james m View Post
Jim,
I have to respectfully disagree.
Oil will not 'attract' anymore pollutants from the air than a dry blade will. What contaminants are in the air will settle on everything EXPOSED equally whether dry or moistened very lightly with oil.
The problem with displaying blades outside the scabbard is dust. Dust will attract moisture with humidity changes. This will cause more damage to a polished surface in the way of surface rust due to moisture retention by the dust than it will by being abrasive.
This is not an issue if the blade is properly stored in the scabbard.
I have used this method very satifactorily on my edged weapon collection for over 40 years. I also use and recommend these same presevation tips for the handcrafted damascus knives I make.
Now if you actually have 'dirt' floating around in your air enough to act as an abrasive I would strongly suggest wearing a dust or particle mask to protect your lungs and health. As an old blade grinder and steel eater I mean that sincerely.
All the best,
TonyAn opinion should be the result of thought, not a substitute for it.
"First ponder, then dare." von MoltkeComment
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