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    War Badge Preservation

    I'd like to hear others thoughts on this topic.

    Preserving daggers/swords vs. EKs vs. wehrmacht badges are 3 birds of a different feather in my book. As such, each erquired different forms of care and attention to preserve them. For this purpose, i'd like to discuss the cleaning and preservation of badges.

    I've experimentd with a variety of meathods for both cleaning and preserving the badges. Here's what I found works best for me.

    I first light remove any visible dirt or grime which can be taken off with a soft cloth and getle rubbing. I then make my homemade "sudsy amonia"c concoction. My recipe includes warm water, pure amonia, and some mild and non-abrassive dish soap. I mix a small batch then bath the badges in the mixture for about 15 seconds. I then remove the badges and lightly and gently brush them with a very soft toothe brush, still using the sudsy amonia. This seems to both remove any trace amounts of dirt and grime that is left. The amonia also seems to bring back alot of the badges color, contained in the gold or silver gilt finish. I then immediately rinse the cleaned badge with warm water, not hot, just warm. Immediately after, i thoroughly dry the badge. I mean thoroughly. Once the badge is dried to my satisfaction, i immediately give the badge a 1st coat of museum grade wax. Prior to the application of the wax coat, it is imperative that the badge is free of any moisture or the wax will trap the H2o between the wax coat and badge casuing degredation and oxidation from the water...not to mention rust. Once the 1st coat of museum wax is dry, I gently buff off the wax with a soft cloth. I then apply a 2nd coat of wax, which is lighter than the 1st, allow it to dry, and rebuff it with the soft cloth.

    The badge should now be impervious to fingerprints and the elements as well as free of dirt, grime and should have shined up a bit from the amonia in the sudsy amonia mixture.

    This meathod seems to work quite well for me and it was derived from my preservation meathods for brass and aluminum saber hilts.

    I'd be very interested to hear what other collectors do to preserve thier war badges. My EK meathod is much different. The iron core will want to rust up once exposed to the water. I avoid all water on my EKs.

    Tom

    #2
    I would loved to see some before and after pictures

    And if you got the time, hear how you clean your EKs

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      #3
      Unfortunately I did not save any before and after photos. I have a blockade coming in which I intend to clean. I'll take photos prior to and after cleaning. The cleaning is subtle. I don't want to remove any gilt that remains on them. However, the cleaning will remove trace amounts of direct and grime on the badge, while shining up the tones of the badge...the gilt, silver areas an so on. The effects are very similiar to that one expects to see when using the same meathod on an heer saber hilt.

      EKs are tricky. It's seldome that I do much to them beyond applying a coat of museum wax. The EKs that come in in bad shape, that are devoid of any of thier original frosting, I'll use very sparing amounts of semichrome just to remove the dirt on the arms and in the beading. This is a very delicate operation, and subject to owner opinion. Probably only 25% of my crosses receive any cleaning. The results have been positive. I avoid the sudsy solution, as the core should NOT get wet or else say hello to rust! That's about the long and short of it. I've experimentd with various other EK cleaning meathods, all of which yielded crumby results. Crosses are fickle, and extreme care must be excercised when cleaning them.

      I'll post the blockade when it comes in. You should be able to notice the difference in the before and after when I post them.

      I should add that the renwax is very effective on porous materails like zinc badges. It seems to seal them which prevents oxygen from feeding the hunger of the zinc pest.
      Last edited by SwordFish; 03-03-2008, 02:11 PM.

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        #4
        This ill give you an idea.

        Before photos= sellers photos
        After photots= After susdsy amonia bath and museum grade was applies.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #5
          This ill give you an idea.

          Before photos= sellers photos
          After photots= After susdsy amonia bath and museum grade was applies.

          Note the brighter contrasts in the badge, as well a bit more cleaner shine.

          Comment


            #6
            AFter
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #7
              Another after. don't expectate the museum resurrection. That won't happen when wer'e edealinig in these typ badges. However, an astoot collector will notice the differences, the most basic of cleanliness. More importantly the the dudsy product will brighten the gilted and metal peices. Wreath gilt becomes clearly more pronounced after the dippping. ONce dried, the musuem wax really adds a nice thorough coating to protect from the elements and the wax, when applied correctly, will also compliment the collection as a whole.
              Attached Files

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                #8
                One more of the before.
                Attached Files

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                  #9
                  Thank you for the information Swordfish.

                  Is it fine to use Renaisence Wax? Would you use it just the same way as you did with your badges? Could you tell me please what is the quantities you use in your solution (% amonia. % soap. % water)?

                  Thanks

                  Edgar

                  PS: Would you use the was on Iron Crosses?

                  Comment

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