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**Nick VR** · 02-28-2008, 07:17 AM

Depends, how and where do you store your badges and dagger?

**Edgar Estrada** · 02-28-2008, 07:23 AM

Now I live in Maylasia a very humid country, however my small collection is under a regulated enveroment (aircon, normal humidity I hope). One day I wish I will take it (the collection), back to America (Ecuador).

Please could you tell me more. Under which condition wuold you use it and dont?

Regards

Edgar

**Nick VR** · 02-28-2008, 08:00 AM

Don't let sunlight into the room where you are storing your collection except from the time you are there.

I would not put any wax on a dagger, there is simply no need for it. It all comes down to humidity, if you store your badges in a glass cabinet like I do, I would see now problem, except if you would be living in a rainforest...

Yust turn the heating on if your'e scared of humidity but do it on a constant level.

Greetz

Nick VR

**Edgar Estrada** · 02-28-2008, 11:24 AM

Thank you for the information.

Edgar

**Stahlhelm** · 03-01-2008, 11:43 PM

I don't put anything on my badges and awards. I prefer to leave them as they are. I just regularly monitor the humidity and control the environment in which they are stored. Although I arguably don't need anything on my dagger blades either, I do use Ren-Wax on them. It certainly doesn't do anything to hurt them; helping them is the least it could do, for sure. Waxing a blade just somehow seems more practical than waxing a medal. Even if I'm not really doing the best thing, it's just what seems best to me, all things considered. Also, most every collector I talk to (and I mean at least 99% of them) also don't put anything on their medals and awards.

Chris

**SwordFish** · 03-02-2008, 01:03 AM

I had posted a thread on the topic a couple days back in this forum. I use Renwax on my badges and daggers. I give alot of my badges sudsy amonia baths upon thier arrival to remove dirt and some of the oxidation. I immediately coat them with Renwax once thoroughly dried, put them in the display frame, and thats it. They stay out of direct sunlight, which all collectibles should. Your "bunker" should have some sort of blinds to filter our UVA sunlight to mitigate damage from the sunlight. The light will cause accellerated degredation.

Everyone has thier own meathod for cleaning and preservation. I hase mine off many experiments with various edged weapons, hilts made of different base materials, gilting, and so on and have found that my meathod is minimally invasive and causes no damage. Care should be taken when cleaning any antique, and I try to avoid cleaner and preservatives that are at all abrassive.

Just my meathods that work for me in which I've had good results.

**Stahlhelm** · 03-02-2008, 11:17 AM

I'm glad this thread on Ren-Waxing medals was started. It's given me another consensus to monitor about the use of Ren-Wax on medals, about which I am honestly still curious and udecided. It certainly makes good sense to put it on them, since it does invisibly and safely protect them from damaging elements, possibly in one's ennvironment.

I am interested to see what the majority of other preservation-minded collectors in this forum have to say about it, before the thread has ended. I'm always open to new ideas, and this is, of course, the best place to get them. Thanks to all who add more to this important topic.

Chris

**SwordFish** · 03-02-2008, 01:28 PM

Something else I should add about badge preservation, is that keeping in mind zinc is susceptible to the zinz bug, the Renwax will create an impermeable layer and prevent the zinc oxidation. We hear of people using petroleum jelly to ward off the bug, when in truth they should be using museum grade wax. Most Prinz Eugen saber hilts are made from a zinc composite base metal, as such the hilt is very prone to problems and growths, from, as usual, the zinc bugger. My most recent Eugen had some serious zinc bug problems when it came into my possession. With some elbow grease, a very sharp razor blade, sudsy amonia and a little semichrome, i was able to remove any and all traces of the zinc oxidation, and subsequently treat it with a heavy coat of Renwax. Since the treatment, I have had no resurgence of the bug, at all. The same sould hold true for badges of zinc. The more porous badges would also benefit from a coat of wax. I can't think of any reason not to apply the wax to a badge. It's non abrassive, easy enough to remove if need be, and provides the layer of protection against the environment and fingerprint acids. The only issue I've ever had with Renwax has been on sake cups/bottles. The hand painted kanji letters and designs will be removed if a petroluem based prouduct is applied directly to it. I had made the mistake, and subsequently learned from the mistake, not to use anything but a little warm water and mild soap to clean the sake cups. The Kanji and the designs are very delicate and is prone to removal with many cleansing and preservation agents.

Hope this helps. There are many schools of though on edged weapon, badge, cloth preservation. Experimentation (on lower end items) and the advice of others is invaluable. It took me a few years to get my meathod down, but once I did, I have to say that the results have been fantastic.

Real quick- preseving the gilt finish on the Eugens is a task in and of itself..simply becasue of the base metal composition. Once the museum grade wax is applied, it should, in theory, provide protection to the remaining gilt. Becuase of the Prinz Eugens hilt material, it is rare to find one in excellent condition with even 75% of the gilt intact. Typically, we're talking in the 40-55% range, at best.

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**Paul R.** · 03-03-2008, 09:41 AM

Just want to add my 2 cent. I work in the field of museum conservation for many years. I praise REN WAX on metal and some wood items 100%.
The association of conservation has conducted years of research on zinc pest. For now there is no evidence showing a mix of glues, vasoline, motor oil, or any other mixture is a 100% cure for zinc pest and left behind damage. Sure there are quick fixes for the short term, but nothing long tern. Conservations departments have ran all sorts of serniors to help solve this problem. So far nothing has been found. If there was such a cure don't you think that this would be published information? SERIOUSLY!

Chris is correct to be cautious when applying ren wax to everything in eye site. We only apply ren wax on suspect items NOT associated with zinc pest, and then record that condition data for a record of treatment used. Paul

**Edgar Estrada** · 03-08-2008, 04:15 AM

Thank you very much to everyone. It is a big help. Wow, what should I do now?

Now I read about the wax on badges and for sure on daggers. but what about Iron Crosses?

Please Swordfish do not "kill me."

Regards

Edgar

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