mounting cloth insignia for display

[zvezdah1]

I read thru a couple pages of threads and didn't see this addressed but if it exists please post a link and I'll follow it.

Been collecting for years and years and have never been really happen with any methods I've used for attached cloth insignia in wall mounted display cases. I've tried everything from safety pins, staples, glue, tape. Lately I've been using the picture hanging clay??? don't know what it's called but it's got a rubbery clay like consistency and you take a small chunk, place it onthe back and the badge sticks well. I concerned about the residue left behind after removal.

So I'm eager to hear suggestions!
Chris

[Stahlhelm]

Okay, this is just my suggestion/opinion. I am very, very picky about allowing my militaria to make any contact with any nonarchival or even questionable substances and/or substrates. I am always very cautious, sometimes to the extent that some collectors would consider extreme. However, whenever it involves things that are sticky, wet, chemical-coated, etc., I wouldn't even consider them. Even the idea of sticking a pin in something is unacceptable for me.

As for how to display your cloth patches in a way that they are secured in place, I'm not sure what might be the perfect solution. If it were me, I would probably put them in a case, as you described. However, in order to keep them from moving around, I would just add extra material (in my case, unbleached, water-washed, muslin) until it provides enough pressure in the case to hold the patches in place, between the glass and the muslin. In my opinion, that is about the best thing you can do to acheive the result you want, without exposing your stuff to any damaging putty chemicals, sticky tape goo, or pin holes. That's just my opinion, and what I would likely do, even though it may not be most convenient.

On the other hand, if you're really okay with sticking pins in your stuff, then you may have already found the best thing to do.

Hopefully helpful,

Chris

P.S. If you do decide to use muslin for any display purposes, there is another good thread or two on here specifically about that. Muslin is, of course, just a 100% pure cotton fabric, with no synthetic materials added. Just remember to get the unbleached type, and first wash it a couple of times in the washer, using no detergents--just water--to remove the starching chemicals.

[Paul R.]

Chris. I agree with stahlhelm. Muslin and fleece will both work. Fleece has that thick raised surface that can keep patches and metals in place. If you use a rikkor type mounting box that is 1 in. to 1/2 in deep. In order to raise your patches or metals closer to the rikkor glass. Use a museum product foam called ethafoam. Cut the ethafoam to fit inside the box. I usually cut the ethafoam a bit small so that I can cover the ethafoam with either fleece or muslin. Cut the muslin, or fleece larger than the ethafoam. Fold over the fabric to cover the sides. I pin the fabric over the edges of the ethafoam to hold fabric in place. Place the fabric covered ethafoam in to your mounting frame. Arrange your ribbons ect. Next place the glass lid over it. I pin the glass cover frame to the rest of the rikkor box sides. You know have a archival museum mount. Your items will be safe.
Make sure the product you buy is ethafoam. Ethafoam is used in museums. and is accepted by conservertors. Ethafoam comes in many varing thickness. 1/4 in -4 in thick. It comes in large plank sizes up to 4 feet wide. I would google ethafoam for places to purchase it near you.

As stahlhelm stated earlier. Make sure you wash the fabric material you use with out soap several times. Paul

[airborne_steve]

Hi there,

I use a tight weave cotton backing to hold all my insignia. It seems to work pretty well. I bought a few frames from an art supply shop and mounted them. There are bunch of makers out there that have like prducts.

I hope this helps/

P.S. I wouldn't use any sort of glue, clay or anything like that. Just use pressue against a soft backing.

Steve

[Stahlhelm]

Chris,

Paul added some great extra information about the best and safest type of display. I must also give Paul the credit for the information about first washing the starching chemicals out of the muslin. I did that, and it worked great for me too. Washing the muslin also softens it nicely, and takes some of those hard wrinkles out that it normally has coming straight off the material bolt at the fabric store. Just hang it up and let it air dry, and it will be as smooth and soft as the cotton that it is.

I also agree 100% with the ethafoam and fleece options. They will give you that nice optimal cushioning effect beneath your patches, especially great for items that take up more depth like pins, medals, etc. I'd say that anything like Paul mentions that is approved of and used by museums is truly the stuff to use. After all, they are really in the serious business of preserving and protecting.

Chris

P.S. Paul, thanks again for even more info I learned in reading you earlier post. I hadn't even heard about the ethofoam yet myself. That sounds like the perfect material and safe replacement for the not-safe foam rubber. It provides a safe alternative to get that much-needed cushion effect under the glass.

[Stahlhelm]

Wow, Steve! I must also post a reply complimenting that outstanding presentation you have for the shoulder boards, etc. Your arrangement there looks great, and its sure given me more than a few good ideas, as well!

Thanks,

Chris

[chainsawrich]

Steve ,whats in the center frame with what looks like a wwi grouping. Is that a bullet hole in the playing card ?

[deejay]

Hi all,

one thing that also works very nicely is using a very thin needle and appropriate cotton, one loose stitch at each corner of a badge or eagle will hold it nicely in place. I have even been able to attach patches to a paper (background) without using harmfull glue or sticky tape which nearly allways leaves residue.

[Fred Green]

preservation

Greetings All,

One of the biggest items you forgot to mention in framing pieces behind glass is UV Light protection. It doesn't matter what type of backing material you use if the items are still exposed to UV light for a long time.

You can replace the glass in your Ryker cases with a UV protectant glass(expensive) or use use a UV Clear film.

When placing the item under glass insure that there is not direct contact with the glass because an moisture in the package will condense on the glass. Using a stitch of a cotton thread on a acid free muslin is a basic frames technique for holding cloth items inplace.

Fred Green

[Paul R.]

deejay Good Job on the mounting. The 101st patches look good. Most conservators will use a cotton thread or a clear thread or fishing line thread to hold things down.

DICHE.. good point uv glass. It's a good choice, but it is not cheap. If you use uv sheeting buy the archival ones they do not out gas like the cheaper one will.

We spend a lot of money on our hobby. Spend a few dollars more to preserve history.

[deejay]

Greetings All,

One of the biggest items you forgot to mention in framing pieces behind glass is UV Light protection. It doesn't matter what type of backing material you use if the items are still exposed to UV light for a long time.

You can replace the glass in your Ryker cases with a UV protectant glass(expensive) or use use a UV Clear film.

When placing the item under glass insure that there is not direct contact with the glass because an moisture in the package will condense on the glass. Using a stitch of a cotton thread on a acid free muslin is a basic frames technique for holding cloth items inplace.

Fred Green

Thanks for your most important addition, not to hang it in sunlight.

[Stahlhelm]

I agree that the UV glass is a must! I forgot to mention that myself, and I glad you did, Fred. Good advice, indeed!

Thanks,

Chris