Will this material do damage to the badges?
Whats the best way to preserve badges?
Whats the best way to preserve badges?
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Nick,
Personally, I would not use the material you show in your pictures. I realize that not everyone may agree with me. However, that's just my advice and opinion, based on information I have found about that type of material. From what I have learned, that stuff is in the family of unstable materials that breaks down over time, emitting gases and other scary stuff that is not good for your collectibles.
Believe me, I know as much as anybody what a royal headache archival issues can be. I really wish it was okay to use it. It sure would make things a lot easier for me too.
This advice/opinion is coming to you from someone who is really a serious nut about archival storage and display. However, that is likely more of a problem than a blessing. I sometimes think I spend too much time worrying about it. So, please make sure you get the opinion of others too, before you jump in and change your display.
The only thing I use to lay my stuff on at this point is unbleached muslin (100% cotton fabric available at any fabric store) which, at this point, is known to cause no harmful side effects to anything.
I hope I have been helpful.
Good luck,
Chris
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Chris, if you're an archival nut then here's something for you...
http://www.archivalsuppliers.com/pro...tion=727-18040Comment
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Thanks for the link, George!Originally posted by George L View Post
That's exactly the kind of stuff I also use--ragboard, acid-free, chemical-leeching-free everything, with acrylic covers, etc. That also really helps to prove my point exactly and answer the questions of archival nuts the world over. If any of the more popular and common materials like foam rubber, soft plastics, and that ever-popular spongey stuff was archival and safe, then it would be for sale on a website like that. The kind of stuff they sell is the kind of stuff to use, if you are really serious and concerned about being 100% safe. While it may not always be the most convenient and useful for your needs, it is the safest.
Of course, I've never heard anything bad about wood, glass, and muslin, if you're looking for a more formal, classy way to display. By that I mean a simple wood case, with a glass top, and a simple muslin lining of whatever necessary thickness. I use that for most of my pieces on permanent display--which is just about everything. I have never had any problems with any of that, and it works just fine.
Chris
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I'll Disagree On The Wood Part..
Oak reacts badly with some metal badges especially German zinc/pot metal badges. Oak 'off gasses' and this gas reacts with zinc/pot metal and can cause corrosion. Some of the oak display cases used by collectors are a definite no-no in my understanding. The only way to prevent this is to buy a case where there is a fairly thick lacquer finish applied.Originally posted by Stahlhelm View PostThanks for the link, George!
That's exactly the kind of stuff I also use--ragboard, acid-free, chemical-leeching-free everything, with acrylic covers, etc. That also really helps to prove my point exactly and answer the questions of archival nuts the world over. If any of the more popular and common materials like foam rubber, soft plastics, and that ever-popular spongey stuff was archival and safe, then it would be for sale on a website like that. The kind of stuff they sell is the kind of stuff to use, if you are really serious and concerned about being 100% safe. While it may not always be the most convenient and useful for your needs, it is the safest.
Of course, I've never heard anything bad about wood, glass, and muslin, if you're looking for a more formal, classy way to display. By that I mean a simple wood case, with a glass top, and a simple muslin lining of whatever necessary thickness. I use that for most of my pieces on permanent display--which is just about everything. I have never had any problems with any of that, and it works just fine.
Chris
Glass, plexiglass, unbleached muslin etc is the way to go eventhough spun polyester/nylon of the kind found in riker mounts is apparently OK but I'm still suspicious..
KonradComment
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glass may be a problem
Hello, a few years ago I found a Hollywood based specialized framer of the rarest of old Hollywood movie posters and on their site was explained how some glass (typical cheap frameing panes) has a very bad effect on the preservation of the paper in the posters! They went on to offer their archival glass in their frames as the antidote.
Also, Glass as a protector is not 100 % given.Most everyone knows that glass is permeable so when grandma and grandpa smoked for 50 years all theirglass encased artifacts became slowly covered in yellow nicotine right through the glass.
Sorry for the gloom...I am still unhappy I ever found this out. It is a devilish plot to destroy my complacency.Comment
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This site has great stuff including Renaissance Metal De-Corroder, which is the closest thing to Magic, that I've seen in a while. It literally melts rust away, while leaving the rest of the metal completely unharmed (that's "COMPLETELY UNHARMED", folks!)Originally posted by George L View Post
Using this, then a coat of RenWax as a 1-2 punch for rusted objects, works like a charm.....
Bob.I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.....Comment
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conservation
Hi Nick, I have been in the museum field for some time. If you use this foam product it will in time cause problems. If you are looking for a safe museum foam product. It is called ethafoam it is safe for artifacts. It is not a polyethylene foam the out gasses turns yellow. Ethafoam sources are found at places like Conservation Resources, Gaylord Museum Products. You can also google it for more sources. It comes in thickness like 1/8 in-4 in. thick planks. It is a proven product in the conservation world.
Shop around prices are all different from other sources.
As far a using a wood frame unles the wood was coated. I don't think that glass would absorb things. A photo in a old frame turning yellow would come from may things such as the photo it self (poor developing) the backing on the back of the photo, and the back of the frame, a photo mat, a glue to hold things together(ie frame) even traped air sandwiched between the photo. I hope this helps.
Stahlham glad you are keeping your self informed on conservation things. I wish that more collectors have your passion. To may colectors just don't care. They spend thousands of dollars on the gota have items just to throw them in a cheap acid out gas box. PaulComment
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