Ren Wax Query

[Stahlhelm]

With issues of conservation, I have learned to ask twice or thrice, and still expect the worst hidden somewhere, or as a surprise for the future. So, I just thought I'd check on this again, to see if any late developments or perspectives have surfaced.

After reading and hearing about the numerous praises for Renaissance Wax, I am about to order and use it on the blades of some of my prized daggers (early-period SS and Luftwaffe, if that makes a difference here). Of course, my purpose is to protect them from future corrosion, rust, or whatever the environment may have to dish out. However, I first would like to know if anyone out there has had any bad experiences with this product. Is it just all the best thing that ever was without exception, or are there some hidden downsides that I just haven't heard about yet? Are there any particular precautions I should take using it? Short of having a nitrogen-free display environment, is there anything else that works better for the purposes of blade protection and preservation?

Yes, I'm trying to fish those horror stories out of the woodwork, if anyone happens to have any. I'd just rather be safe than sorry, by asking yet one more time (twice so far), before I take the plunge and commit.

If Renaissance Wax truly is the best, I have yet another question: If I apply this product and afterwards, for any reason, decide I would like to remove it from the blades, how easy is it do this? Also, what is the best method of removing it, without subjecting the blade to damage and/or other possibly corrosive chemicals?

Thanks in advance for your help and opinions ,

Chris

P.S. How many of you are having success preserving your blades by putting absolutely nothing on them (as I would, of course, prefer to do).

[Stahlhelm]

After several days with no response, I will respond to myself, and assume that using Renaissance Wax on dagger blades is an unconditional no-brainer.

That is the best way I can make sense of the no-response-effect, without otherwise thinking that I was really stupid for even asking. However, on second thought, if I didn't get a no-brainer, then maybe I am...

[Stu W]

Ren Wax

Hi,

Well, I read member's comments on GDC about Ren Wax. All good. I planned to coat all my edged weapons but wanted some first hand insight so I coated two old hunting knives I had (one bone handle and one wooden handle) as well as some strips of leather and a few old coins with it. I figured they would be similar to daggers, frogs and awards. That was a year ago when I joined here.

These items were stored in my garage (I don't store my edged weapons there as well, they are in the house) which is dry but not heated. I stored them there to see what effect the somewhat adverse conditions would have upon them over a protracted period of time. Temperature ranges roughly from -5 C to 25 C throughout the year where I live on the west coast of Canada. We get significant rainfall for 6 months of the year.

To date the wax is intact. The knives remain as they were, the leather is more supple and no color change was experienced although it did tone a little darker and the coins still sparkle. I buffed the leather with a new clean horsehair shoe brush, but simply wiped the Ren Wax onto the knives and coins, let it dry then buffed the excess off with a cloth when dry.

Based on my experience and from what I have been told I wouldn't hesitate to use it on any item. I have a collector friend who has coated all his medals with it including his EK. They actually take on an interesting look. They look aged, as the patina stays in place, but they look new at the same time as the wax brings the tones to life. He believes that Ren Wax will prevent zinc pest. I don't know. These are simply the results of my little experiment. I'm not suggesting you do that though as it's a personal choice. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

As to removal...I have no experience in that so can't comment. Possibly writing the maker would get an answer to that question.

Regards,
Stu

[Erich B.]

I don't have the info handy, but I believe Renwax is removable with mineral spirits (or paint thinner/turpentine). Obviously it depends on what it is on as to whether you would want to use those!
Erich

[Stahlhelm]

Many thanks to Stu and Erich for the great information! That's exactly what I wanted to know, and I really appreciate it.

Sincerely,

Chris

P.S. I just located a store in my area that sells Ren Wax, so I'll be getting some of it tomorrow. It really does appear to be the best thing to use.

[Paul R.]

I work in several US museum. Most conservators take the approach with Ren wax with caution The concern is with the item being treated. Does the item display any rust, or mold, or mildew. If so do not apply ren wax. Ren wax does not remove rust, or mold. It locks in mold rust mildew. Make sure the item is wiped clean of finger prints and dust before applying the ren wax to any surface. Use only a small amount. Do not reply even after a year or more. If you handle the item use gloves. Do not wrap the item in plastic, and keep the humidity between 43-45% and keep the temp. average. Paul

[Stahlhelm]

Thanks Paul,

Actually, the only part of the dagger I plan to put the Ren Wax on is the blade. I just want something to keep the rust and corrosion off of it. The Ren Wax seems to be the best alternative that I have so far heard about. As for the wood handle, metal fittings, and all else on the dagger, I plan to leave those alone, untreated with anything. I really do also prefer to do the least possible, while still taking a reasonable amount of necessary precautions. I admit that confusion with all this conservation stuff has nearly driven me nuts, but with everyone's help (including yours), I am finally reaching a conclusion about what's best to do.

I have an early-period, serialized dagger with the solid nickel fittings and a very nice, naturally-aged patina. So, I have no problems with anything except the future of the blade.

Yes, I also absolutely agree that gloves should also be worn at all times. I think the only time I've ever laid hands on mine is when I was inspecting it, before I bought it. And that's because I didn't have any gloves at the time I came across it.

Thanks again for your advice. I appreciate it.

Chris

[George L]

I've used this product with mostly good results. I find that it works very well on hard surfaces/plating, but not so good on "wash" finishes. By wash finish, an example would be the dark blue/grey colored finish found on Luft qualification badges...seems like the Ren Wax is more likely to remove it than preserve it.

Erich is correct on removing the RW with mineral spirits. Make sure the piece is clean of any oil, grease, dirt first, and then wear gloves while you apply it. This will keep finger prints/oils off it while it's applied. A little goes a long way, and you can leave it dull, or polish with a soft cloth to get a shine. As with any product, try it on a small hidden area first and see how it goes before applying it all over.

Hope that helps.

[Stahlhelm]

Thanks again...

[Stahlhelm]

As an update for anyone who cares, I should report that I have bought and applied Ren Wax to the blade in question. The results have been better than anything I expected. I actually cannot imagine what could be a better alternative for achieving the desired result--simply protecting the blade, without altering its appearance in any way. What else could be better?

Chris

[Robert P.]

WEll,

After reading all of the postive input from others here regarding Ren Wax I bought a tin and applied it to two of my zinc flak badges. I was wanting something to preserve these badges in the condition they are presently in. I was surprised how little is actually needed to do the job. I applied it with a small paint brush to ensure that it reached deep into the obverse detailing of the badges. After drying I polished it with a soft horsehair brush. I like the smooth dry feel the dried wax leaves on the surface of the badges. It's non-glossy, so photography is not a problem under hot lights. I'll have to say, after trying vaseline treatments in the past, Ren Wax 'outshines' the competition hands-down. I'm sold on it. The badges are protected against any humidity, which gives me peace of mind. Vaseline on my badges was nothing but a dust magnet.

Thanks, Stu, for your help on the land line. You convinced me into giving it a try, finally.

Robert

[Stahlhelm]

WEll,

After reading all of the postive input from others here regarding Ren Wax I bought a tin and applied it to two of my zinc flak badges. I was wanting something to preserve these badges in the condition they are presently in. I was surprised how little is actually needed to do the job. I applied it with a small paint brush to ensure that it reached deep into the obverse detailing of the badges. After drying I polished it with a soft horsehair brush. I like the smooth dry feel the dried wax leaves on the surface of the badges. It's non-glossy, so photography is not a problem under hot lights. I'll have to say, after trying vaseline treatments in the past, Ren Wax 'outshines' the competition hands-down. I'm sold on it. The badges are protected against any humidity, which gives me peace of mind. Vaseline on my badges was nothing but a dust magnet.

Thanks, Stu, for your help on the land line. You convinced me into giving it a try, finally.



Robert

Robert:

It's good to hear that the Ren Wax worked for you too. I admit that I was initially unsure about it (as is obvious in the subject of this thread), but I now I also can't say enough good things about it.

That oily, dust-attracting surface you mentioned is definitely not acceptable or safe. Ren Wax does exactly the job we want, remains invisible, and doesn't attract anything, except the attention we want!

Chris

[Don Scowen]

Robert,

When used on the zinc badges, did it change the colour of the badge at all? Slightly darker or lighter?

Cheers
Don

[Robert P.]

Robert,

When used on the zinc badges, did it change the colour of the badge at all? Slightly darker or lighter?

Cheers
Don

No, that's what I liked about it the most. I applied it to open-pored bare zinc badges, and the color remained the same. It leaves an invisible film that won't even shine under the hot lights used for macro phototography.

Robert

[George L]

Glad to see the Ren Wax worked out for you. I've had no issues with zinc badges turning colors from it, either.