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**Jareth** · 08-06-2007, 08:09 PM

Another solution less smelly is to deep freeze the wool items. Either in your freezer or if your friendly with a local business (ice cream, butcher etc) that has a large walk in freezer.

**Richard** · 08-06-2007, 09:36 PM

As I understand the mothballs do not kill the moths or the larvae. Like cedar wood it is a deterrent as the moths will avoid it.
Richard V

**N.C. Wyeth** · 08-07-2007, 08:14 AM

Originally posted by Richard View Post

As I understand the mothballs do not kill the moths or the larvae. Like cedar wood it is a deterrent as the moths will avoid it.
Richard V

If you SEAL THE GARMENT in something with mothballs over an extended period of time, I don't believe much will survive the gas that is produced - it's quite toxic. I would wager that lack of Oxygen and introduction of a toxic gas within a confined space would quickly shorten the lifespan of a moth, it's larvae, and/or it's eggs . . . .

Brad

**Theodor** · 08-07-2007, 04:02 PM

Originally posted by Brad Long View Post

lack of Oxygen... introduction of a toxic gas ... confined space.....

Sounds much like my collection room

As far as I know, mothballs would indeed scare the butterflies, but not harm their worms. So, you need the heavy Flak, i've seen some special spray cans, mentioning not only the moth butterflies, but also the larvae as possible victims

**Will Brown** · 08-07-2007, 09:11 PM

Well guys, clearly no lack of imagination here, but before someone brings up nerve gas or radiation treatment

to kill any unwanted guests I have opted for the deep freeze for 72 hours. Just to be sure.

Thanks again for the input.

**PZIV** · 08-14-2007, 11:15 AM

My career will be moth hunting if they touch my 82nd Airborne tunic.

**MilitaryCollect** · 09-20-2007, 06:13 AM

Moths?

Hi,

Did I hear moths? order Lepidoptera? Mothus Dilecti? Those little winged monsters of the insect world?

Here's a couple links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moth

Kill em' dead article:

http://www.willert.com/tempPDFs/Will..._no%20slvr.pdf

Wow, I have a WW1 PR officer tunic and they ate a small part. Now, everything is stored in sealed clothing bags with mothballs, cedar chips AND I keep a loaded 8 guage shotgun (working antique) in the storage facility as a VERY visible deterrent.

Christopher

**Robert P.** · 09-20-2007, 11:08 AM

I guess we who collect woolen articles (uniforms, caps, shoulder boards, etc.) know that we can illiminate 50% of those pesky moths from entering our homes by removing our front and back porch light. I have many woolen rugs in my house so I'm particularly interested in keeping the 'enemy' outside. I exhibit my many tunics on torso mounts in 'my cave', which I keep scented with fresh lavendar. I inspect my items periodically, and have found no evidence that any flying creatures have entered the room. I keep bags of this fresh lavendar under each mounted tunic, and it seems to do the trick. Lavendar is easy to grow and harvest twice or three times a year. You can also buy fresh 100% concentrated lavendar oil from online dealers. If anyone wants this oil... bcherb@bossig.com

Robert

**Paul R.** · 09-22-2007, 09:14 AM

moths

Here's another article a museum conservator gave me. It gives ideas that a lot of museums use. Paul

**Paul R.** · 09-22-2007, 09:27 AM

moths

<TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="WIDTH: 503.65pt; mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 5.25pt 5.25pt 5.25pt 5.25pt" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=672 border=0><TBODY><TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes"><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 5.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 5.25pt; BACKGROUND: white; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5.25pt; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 490.15pt; PADDING-TOP: 5.25pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8" vAlign=top width=654>Moth prevention <O></O>

Clothes moths are usually blamed for insect damage on fabrics, but other insect pests, most notably carpet beetles, are also able to cause serious damage.<O

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The immature stages (larvae) of both the clothes moth and carpet beetle feed on a variety of animal-based material, including wool, fur, silk, feathers and leather. Items commonly infested include wool sweaters, coats, clothing, blankets, carpets, down pillows, and comforters, natural bristle brushes, toys and animal trophies.<O

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Neither the clothes moth nor the carpet beetle can digest cellulosic fibers such as cotton, linen, or rayon, or synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, or acrylic, so these are usually safe. However, synthetic fabrics that are blended with wool may be eaten. Cotton, linen and synthetics heavily soiled with food stains or body oils may also be occasionally attacked.<O

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How to Identify the Clothes Moth:<O

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Clothes moths are small (about ½ inch), buff-colored moths with narrow wings fringed with hairs. Adult clothes moths are seldom seen because they avoid light. Adult clothes moths do not feed so they cause no injury to fabrics. However, the adults produce eggs, which hatch into fabric-eating larvae. In the larval stage, clothes moths are creamy-white caterpillars up to ½ inch long.<O

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Webbing clothes moth larvae spin silken feeding tunnels or patches of webbing as they move about on the surface of fabrics. They often deposit tiny fecal pellets similar in color to the fabric.<O

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Case making clothes moth larvae enclose themselves in a portable case that they drag with them wherever they go. Often they leave the material they developed on and can be seen crawling slowly over walls or ceilings. This moth may travel a considerable distance to spin a cocoon in a protected crack or along the juncture of a wall and ceiling.<O

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How to Identify Carpet Beetles:<O

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There are many different species of carpet beetles. The adults are small, oval-shaped beetles about 1/8 inches long. The most common, the black carpet beetle is shiny black; others are brightly colored in various patterns of white, brown, yellow and orange.<O

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The larvae are about 1/8 inch to ¼ inch long and densely covered with hairs or bristles. Only the larval stage feeds on fabric and causes damage. They will also feed on seeds, pet food, or cereal products. In nature the adults feed on flowers outdoors. If they are seen indoors, around light fixtures and windows, there is a larval infestation present somewhere within the home.<O

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Habits of Both Pests:<O

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The larvae of both prefer to feed in dark, undisturbed areas such as closets, attics, and within boxes where woolens and furs are stored for long periods. Clothing and blankets in constant use are seldom damaged by these pests nor are carpets that get normal traffic or are routinely vacuumed. The edges of carpets next to walls or underneath furniture are often attacked.<O

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These pests may also be found in upholstered furniture (both inside and out) and in air ducts where the larvae may be feeding on lint, shed pet hair and other debris. Infestations may also originate from bird or animal nests, or an animal carcass present in an attic, chimney or wall space. Adult carpet beetles may fly from one house to another or eggs or larvae may be transported into a home on articles containing wool or other animal fibers.<O

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Damage to articles may consist of irregular surface feeding or holes eaten completely through the fabric.<O

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Prevention:<O

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Good cleaning is the best prevention. Vacuum carpets thoroughly and frequently. Pay close attention to dark, out-of-the-way places. If you have pets, clean more often since pet hair is a good source for these pests.<O

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Elimination:<O

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If insect damage is suspected check all susceptible items carefully. Look in back corners of the closet, hat boxes, remnants of wool fabric or carpeting. Clothes moths and carpet beetles often breed in hair-based accumulations that might be found behind baseboards, under door jambs, inside heating vents, etc. Clean and vacuum carefully.<O

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When infested areas are cleaned well, it may not be necessary to apply an insecticide. If an insecticide is used, treat only cracks, crevices, and invested areas. Sprays may be applied to infested carpets (especially along and beneath edges adjacent to baseboards) and underneath furniture. NEVER spray clothing or bedding directly. These items should be removed before spraying inside closets or drawers. Always read the label on household sprays and follow product directions carefully.<O

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Before returning items to storage areas. And before you vacuum an item check to make sure that the garment is safe to vacuum. No loose liners, insignias, thread, buttons, fasteners or bullion. Vacuum the item toughly. Use the vacuum wand attachment on the vacuum. Place a small piece of NYLON window screening over the fabric. (the nylon screening will not raise the wool napping). Vacuum over the screen several times. Continue vacuum over the entire garment. Moving the nylon screening along. Don’t forget the interior as well. When completed discard the vacuum bag .A widespread infestation may require the services of a professional pest control operator who can better access difficult places such as walls and attics.<O

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Laundering/Dry-cleaning:<O

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Not recommended for historical artifacts. NOTE: Most animal-based fibers cannot tolerate hot water without shrinking or other damage. However both laundering in hot water and dry-cleaning will kill all stages of fabric pests and will also remove perspiration odors that are attractive to pets. Dry cleaning chemicals do leave a film like substance behind. That can not be removed from a garment. Over dry cleaning will lead to fabric break down.<O

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Storage/Fumigation:<O></O>
Prolong exposure to the vapors can cause lung ailments and upper repertory problems<O

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The vapors from moth balls, crystals or flakes containing paradichlorobensene (PDB) or naphthalene, are lethal to fabric pests, but only when maintained at sufficient concentrations. To ensure this, enclose the manufacturer's recommended dosage in containers that are practically airtight. Trunks, garment bags, boxes and chests, when tightly sealed, will be effective. Do not use PDB in plastic containers.<O

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Contrary to popular belief, cedar chests and closets are seldom effective in preventing fabric pest infestations because the seal does not keep in enough concentration of the volatile oil of cedar.<O

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Do not place any insecticide directly on fabric. Either place mothballs, flakes, or crystals on a layer of paper on top of items in a box or chest or layer the clothing and place paper and moth control product between the layers. If using a garment bag, suspend the moth control product in an old sock or nylon stocking at the top of the bag or use a moth cake. Clothing should be loosely separated.<O

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The length of exposure needed to kill clothes moths or carpet beetles will vary with the temperature, the size of the larvae, and the form, concentration and which variety of insecticide is used. Several days are usually sufficient to kill most infestations, but older larvae and most stages of carpet beetles may require two to three weeks.<O

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Brushing:<O

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Clothing may be thoroughly brushed at regular interval (once or twice a month) to control moths. Brushing should be done outside. All areas should be brushed including pocket flaps and under collars.<O

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Cold Storage: Although cold storage temperatures (at 40 degrees F) may prevent larvae from feeding it does not kill them. Furs should be cleaned prior to cold storage by a professional cleaner using the furrier method.<O

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Mothproofing:<O></O>
The use of different lavender sashes will help some. If you grow your own lavender make sure it is bug free before bringing it in from outside. Change it often. As the lavender wares out bugs can live in that too.<O

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Mothproofing is a chemical treatment given to fabrics that protects them from insects without leaving any odor. A label stating "mothproof" or "moth resistant" means that the item has been treated during manufacturing. This process is considered permanent. <O

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<O

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**Stahlhelm** · 09-22-2007, 10:35 AM

Luckily, after decades of collecting, I have never yet had a moth problem. (I'm knocking on the wood of a display case, as I type this

). Since I was a teenager, I have collected and studied insects also, of course, being well aware of the dangers they can do. So, I believe I have so far successfully avoided them by being very watchful at all times. By that, I mean I watch the door where they can get in, as well as the items that they could damage. Yes, lucky for me, I suppose, I'm also one of those visaul/spatial colletors who likes to frequently look at my collectibles in detail, often enough to interfere with their life cycle and possibly their life in general.

I know that's not necessarily the all-around answer to moth problems, but so far, it has worked for me for all the time I've collected moth food. That's just my two-cents worth on the issue of moth management.

Ever vigilant

,

Chris

**Ralph P** · 09-22-2007, 01:11 PM

For those not able to see the article. Click, hold and scroll your mouse over the article Paul posted. This might be a problem only on my computer...

Paul thanks for posting the article...

**Robert P.** · 09-22-2007, 01:31 PM

Thanks Ralph,

An excellent article, Paul! Thank you.

Robert

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