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**Theodor** · 10-31-2006, 01:57 AM

I think WD-40 or some other of that kind "penetrating oil" would be good. It soaks well the rust and removes some of it.

**Lassi** · 10-31-2006, 08:19 AM

Yeap WD40 would also be my surgestion it dryes up again and don******180;t leave it soaked and nasty

Cheers
Lassi

**PZIV** · 10-31-2006, 05:29 PM

So what are some steps? Maybe get a pan of WD40, dip the toothbrush in it and gently rub the outside with the wet toothbrush?

**Paul G** · 11-01-2006, 02:17 PM

I don't think those are the same helmets in the before and after shots. Probably just a representative example of each. There is not much that could be done with that "before" example.

PG-

**PZIV** · 11-01-2006, 08:33 PM

Thank you for your opinion. I do not think that he would lie though.

**us1945** · 01-07-2007, 11:09 AM

I heared that you can with what we call lijn-olie.....or line-oil (product of line seats??!!)

Put it on...and wait..... 100% rusty helmets get clean again..and often paint is still there...and the decals

My friend picked up some German WW1 helmets in Afganistan were he kicked some ass.....those are a little bit rusty from the outside desert..but I still see a little paint..and the helmet is strong.

Often rust east the complete helemet...but there is also paint who is just under the rust.

I`ll try it on my helmet as soon as I shopped for a bottle at the local paintshop (busy with work etc)

So I`ll come back on this.... will make pics before and after...

best regards Tommy

**steve h** · 01-09-2007, 03:47 PM

if the helmet is reasonably robust, start by washing it in hot soapy water, take a scrubbing brush to it, be firm but careful. there`s no point coating a helmet shell in oil if it still has dirt etc clinging to the surface. then dry thoroughly, the best way if you can`t do it in the sun, is to put it in the oven at around 100-120 degrees for five minutes or so. take it out carefully, allow to cool , then use your oil, wd 40 as suggested is good, don`t be mean , give it a good spray inside and out. it`s amazing how much it`ll drink. you may have to do it two or three times. allow to stand somewhere warmish and dust free for a few days and bingo!, a new helmet!!.

**steve h** · 01-09-2007, 03:49 PM

i just had a thought , the above advice applies only if the shell is linerless!. obviously, if it still has the leather liner, ignore the above!!

**pitts duncan** · 04-13-2007, 10:36 PM

read the post in here about electrolisis to remove rust.

the guy in here a few posts back had a great article about putting it in a stainless tub, hook it to a negative battery charger and then put a piece of iron in the tub connected to a positive . in two hours or so all the rust is electrically removed. i am going to try this.

**PZIV** · 04-19-2007, 07:02 PM

I have thought about it, but I think it looks better rustic and "antique" look. It's more "been there" than the clean ones I think.

**Oregon** · 04-21-2007, 06:47 PM

An alternative to WD-40 is Gibbs. The product may eliminate the need to aggressively scrub the potentially delicate finish. - http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

Cody

**Oregon** · 04-22-2007, 12:19 PM

My buddy Erik asked if Gibbs will harm paint. The can states application on paint is safe so let's make a little experiment. This helmet was an attempt to see how easily a fake winter camo could be produced. The entire helmet represents about 30 minutes of actual effort while the patina can be attributed to a couple years outdoors during Oregon winters.

Cody

**Oregon** · 04-22-2007, 12:19 PM

2

**Oregon** · 04-22-2007, 12:21 PM

Here, the helmet has been hosed in Gibbs. We'll see what happens over the next few days...

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Rusty helmet help!

Rusty helmet help!

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