Cleaning Grips

[CMSgt]

What do you use to clean an SA dagger grip. I have one that must have 60 years of dirt and grim on it and would like to clean, if recommended. Thanks for your help. Jim

[schönbeck]

please post a pic of it. I have done several repairs of grips with good result. Depending on the material in the grip and also how it was finished.

[schönbeck]

btw, if its just dirty you dont need to do anything. But like I said take som pics..

here is somethink I worked with. Note that when took the scan of the finished handle I had forgot to tighten the nut, leaving a gap between the wood and the lower crossguard

[schönbeck]

here is the result, like I sainf nut wasnt tightened and the laquer hadnt almost dried. After this I took a small piece of steelwool to make it look a little more worn. The darker look was needed to cover the repair. Also the crossguard has been cleaned.

[CMSgt]

Grip

Here are the pictures of the grip.

[CMSgt]

Back

Looking down the grip so that you can see the dirt buildup. I also need a new blade by E.P.&S to replace this one as someone sharpened it and it is about 1/2 inch short.

[schönbeck]

ok, the best way to clean this one is using a DREMEL or similar tool. Mount the circle shaped felt/cloth wheel and let it spin. This will make the grip look as new. There is no laquer on this grip.

You can remove the sharpening by using a sandpaper, start at 400 and finish at 1200-2000. If you want it to be even better, then use a big cloothwheel attached to those large mounted drills. It will look like new.

[CMSgt]

Thanks

Thanks for the help. Jim

[schönbeck]

oh yes, be careful at the edges and never let it stay on one spot to long.

[Tiger 1]

PLease do not use any power tools!

To preserve the correct sharp contours of the grip do not sand it! It is not necessary for 'cleaning'.

Disassemble the dagger and carefully use a rag soaked in acetone, lacquer thinner or other commercial wood stripper and DISOLVE the grim away. It may take several tries to completely clean it. Then carefully apply a linseed oil to the wood. This method will preserve the original contours and the little signs of wear that show it has some history.

Sorry to say the pics of the 'restored' grip that is shown shows very rounded over edges of the original grip. There is no doubt that it has been unprofessionally worked on. Good intentions aside, it should have been left alone or done by someone experienced in restoration. Compare the two to see the distinct difference.

If you feel the need to use an abrasive paper do so by hand and with a lite touch. Also blck the paper so you do not round over edges that are originaly suposed to be sharp. Think first about what you want to accomplish then figure out how you will do it. Then proceed carefully and slowly. Look as you go and know when to stop.

Always keep in mind that you cannot add material you have sanded away carelessly. Once it's gone, it's gone for ever!

Please spare even the poorest of collectables from power tools! It is not necessary for any cleaning.

Tony

[james m]

Tiger 1s response above is IMO basically correct. As a general rule when you engage in "restoration" use the gentlest method first. If,for example, I have a SA dagger grip with a grungy surface I'll usually wipe it down with tissue and see what the results were. The next step for me would be to use turpentine(paint thiner) as a cleaning agent. If this doesn't work I'd move on to acetone or laquer thiner. As a last resort you can strip the grip and refinish it but most collectors frown on this. You want to avoid sanding or scaping at all cost as this removes wood and will alter the contours. Repairs to cracks and the replacement of missing wood is a whole other story. Hope this helps as I've been at this for 30+ years and learned a lot the hard way.
Jim

[schönbeck]

you havent read what i wrote. Sanding is for the blade that is sharpened, you cant get it better with aceton.....heheh

Using a Dremel with a cloth wheel will cause no problems, nor will it loose any of its contours. Only thing that will happen is that the surface will be better looking. I have done several times. The grip looks like new.

[schönbeck]

ohh yes, this works best with non RZM pieces.

[Tiger 1]

With due respect.

Compare the center ridge and adjacent top and bottom points where the grip flares to the crosseguard and pommel on the first grip with the changed contours and and flattened ridge on the second grip. They certainly do not look the same. Hence changed. The sanded grip is not as crisp as the damaged original in the first picture.

Sorry, that's just how I see it.

Tony

[schönbeck]

well we are not talking about the handle in the above posting. That handle was very chipped. and to even the chip a sanding was needed. What I'm talking about is removing dirt, when doing that you dont use sandpaper.
Please read what the entire post was about.
Also in the above pic, the first was taken by a usual camera and the second with a scanner when the laquer wasnt even dry. The endresult was very good. Also remember that a early SA will have smoother grips than a later RZM