Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
How to photograph your collection
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
Originally posted by Robert P. View PostTo follow what you were saying I took a photo on the dark side, brightened it on photoshop, sharpened it and burned the edges...
IMO, I'm handicapped by too low a megapixel camera.
Robert
It seems like the details are softer on the pictures I take currently and I am having great difficulty getting detail shots of hinges, catches, and maker marks.
I am experimenting with some different cameras trying to get better images.
Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 1/6 second ===> 0.16667 second
Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 56/10 ===> ƒ/5.6
Exposure Program = shutter priority (4)
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Original Date/Time = 2012:03:23 15:56:09
Digitization Date/Time = 2012:03:23 15:56:09
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) = 1/6 second
Aperture Value (APEX) = 325770/65536
Aperture = ƒ/5.6
Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/3 ===> 0
Metering Mode = average (1)
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 55/1 mm ===> 55 mm
Image Width = 3888 pixels
Image Height = 2592 pixelsAttached Files
Accidentally offending people on the internet since 1997
Comment
-
The Curse of the Buckle Collector
Highly polished aluminium, nickel silver and brass surfaces at times can be a challenge to photograph without the final image showing reflections of the camera, hands etc., etc.
Here are a few images of a non issued aluminium HJ which has the obverse still with the factory created, highly polished to mirror finish.
Hand held compact with the buckle set on white paper
Camera settings on macro, shutter priority (1/60th min), film mode natural, picture size 9.5M, quality non compressed, ISO sensitivity auto, white balance tungsten and spot metering mode
200W tungsten bulb 12" above the buckle
Thin sheet of rigid white expanded polystyrene foam held against the camera with a hole created for the lens to protrude through.
Bulb over the rigid white expanded polystyrene foam and where the latter acts as both a diffuser and a shield against unwanted reflections
Usually three exposures - 1/3 EV, 0 EV and + 1/3 EV
Editing with the free edition of FastStone
Merging with the free edition of PhotoScape
Regards,
DavidAttached Files
Comment
-
Amazing thread Marc!
I have a heck of a time getting the military greens just right. Digital cameras hate green for some reason. I have lots of field gear, webbing, head gear and helmets etc. Up till now I like the natural window light the best to get the greens. But not much room by the windows and you have to wait for just the right light at various times of the day. Direct sunlight works also, but limited to non cloudy periods. Many types of light also, LED, halogen, daylight, soft white, florescent.
I want to create a setup in the basement where I have unlimited space for small and large objects. As Jacquesf pointed out getting the green for tunics or headgear just right is hard.
Can you or anyone please point me in the correct direction. Will the light tent do the trick?
Thanks muchLast edited by Kelly w; 11-23-2012, 03:56 PM.
Comment
-
I don't know if I posted this photo here or not so I'll post it. This is my light box, very similar to the light box in the opening post of this thread. I have two flourescent bulbs on both sides of the box. The white sheet acts as a difuser to block the direct harsh glare from the lights. It works quite well.
RobertAttached Files
Comment
Users Viewing this Thread
Collapse
There are currently 5 users online. 0 members and 5 guests.
Most users ever online was 10,032 at 08:13 PM on 09-28-2024.
Comment