Hi, I'd like to dismantle the pommel from rusted part of the blade, but cannot decide which way to go. The corrosion has attacked the steel really deep, so I am affraid to ruin the rare pommel I need to restore my other dagger. Any help is appreciated.
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WD 40 spray melts rust -
I know. But it will take years to melt this much.
I thought about cutting the rusted blade part near the pommel, than drilling a 3mm hole through the rust, and than tying to melt the rust. But the danger of that approach is that, if that doesn't melt all rust, I will not have enough "meat" of the blade to crimp it and unscrew.
The part of the blade is already twisted ccw, so someone tried to unscrew it already. As we generally use WD-40 for rust removal, I think that was the case here, already.
I thought about electrolysis, but that would also damage brass ;-)Comment
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I like the WD-40 idea myself. If you soaked it for about a week it very well might work. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try. I would practice patience here.
Regards,
FrankComment
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While WD-40 is great for most things rusty, in this case you'll probably never get it to penetrate deep enough to do you any good. I have had good luck with products like Kroil and PB Blaster. They really penetrate a lot deeper than WD-40. If they don't have them at your local hardware store, kerosene works pretty well if you submerge it for a day or two.
JimComment
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I would cut the blade off almost flush with the pommel ,sand it down too flust drill it and tap it with proper thread size. With it drilled out you might be able to pick the rust threads out of the pommel.If you don't know how to do it take it to a machinist you might knowComment
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Standard CA
Disclaimer 
- Doing any of the following is at your own risk!
Working on guns with screws and other parts that are frozen by rust, here is some of what has been used to solve the problem. IMO - WD 40 is OK for some things, but (Kano) Kroil Penetrating Oil is more effective as a penetrator on a microscopic level. Then a layered approach:
Plan # 1 and would require totally immersing the part(s) for an hour, or a couple of days, or maybe even a week or so to allow it to penetrate - leaving what’s left of the tang intact to assist in removing it.
Plan # 2 is similar to DR DOLCH'S, and would involve the use of tools that may or may not be available, in which case it may be necessary to go to a gunsmith or other professional (plan # 3):
- a metal file to more accurately control the cutting of a “flat” after cutting away the tang close to the pommel - a small center punch applied to the "flat" to help as a guide for the drill bit in trying to not drill into the pommel itself - a drill press, and a drill bit (or bits starting with the smallest as a guide) not to exceed the outside diameter of the tang * at this point it would not hurt IMO to use some more penetrating oil (and some time) inside the hole - that could help loosen the remnants of the tang left in the pommel’s threads - with rethreading as an option if the none of the above works
PS: In addition to the drill press, a machinist's adjustable vise is also nice to have, although a standard one should suffice. And soft(er) wooden blocks to hold the pommel firmly without damaging it are IMO mandatory. FPComment
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Great advices, guys. I have all tolls available in a workshop of my friend, a professional guy, and will try first with immersing in WD-40 for a week and try to unscrew. If it fails, I'm on a plan #2 ;-).
I thought about leaving it as is, but as I have all other parts of very rare Croatian naval dagger, I will use it as a spare part.
It will stay in my collection, to note, this is not a try to get large sum out of assembled piece ;-)
Thanks again to everyone!Comment
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