Bayonet Storage and Care

[cerick1450]

Hi all. I have a question on storage and care of a ww2 bayonet. Should you try to remove the frog and store the two separately. I have found it difficult at times to remove the frog, and have left it in place and done my best to clean, and oil the scabbard. Any comments or ideas?

Thanks
Charlie

[Billy G]

Hey Charlie,

Some frogs are easily removed, many are not. Removing a frog can very easily cause it to break or split which would lessen the value & just generally tick you off. The least you do with any of it is best.

Regarding the scabbard, my suggestion would be to, if possible, remove the throat screw to get at the scabbard throat. Once out, you can east the throat out to clean the runners which will lessen them scratching up the blade. Some collectors favor lubing the runners with oil, silicone or Rennaisance Wax, if you use anything I'd suggest the Renwax & forget the oil (some types can leave spotting on blades).

If the bayonet is etched, I'd suggest you remove the blade from the scabbard & don't put it back as it'll only risk future damage to the etch.

Hope this helps.

[cerick1450]

Billy

I have used Remoil for years to preserve the blades on my swords and bayonets, including the dress Bayo's. Should I switch to something else to keep them from rusting and discoloring?

Thanks
Charlie

[cerick1450]

Any recommendations for oiling, preserving bayonets and swords?

thanks
Charlie

[rbminis]

No oiling, clean and dry. If anything, a little Ren-Wax.

[cerick1450]

Thanks for the help. I still have a few questions.

1) Do you clean the blade/scabbard with anything to get the oil off before applying the wax?
2) Does the wax go on everything? Handle, blade, and scabbard?
3) Does this wax also work for blued and Parkerized blades as well?
4) Is there any part I should avoid getting the wax on?

Thanks
Charlie

[rbminis]

Many collectors have different opinions.
1. Acetone is a good cleaner as it flashes off quite quickly. You could also use a good quality polish very litely by hand with a soft cloth, but not on any etches and always go in the direction of any grain.
2. I believe Ren-Wax can be used on all of the above.
3. Blued or Parkerized should require no treatment, just clean and dry
4. I would avoid getting the wax on any etches.
These are all just my opinions, others may feel differently.

[Stu W]

Many collectors have different opinions.
1. Acetone is a good cleaner as it flashes off quite quickly. You could also use a good quality polish very litely by hand with a soft cloth, but not on any etches and always go in the direction of any grain.
2. I believe Ren-Wax can be used on all of the above.
3. Blued or Parkerized should require no treatment, just clean and dry
4. I would avoid getting the wax on any etches.
These are all just my opinions, others may feel differently.

I agree with Ralph. In addition I suggest you spend some time Searching "Ren Wax" in the Conservation Forum. There are quite a number of posts there that contain info with regards to it's use on edge weapons.

Personally I'm a big fan and use it from tip to tang on combat weapons. For dress weapons and others I modify that usage.

You can also find info on the minimally abrasive paste cleaner Pre-Lim there too. It's by the same maker as RenWax. Here is a randomly selected link...

http://shellac.net/PreLim.html

Last, but not least, once I've cleaned, waxed or whatever is required of an edged weapon I never again place it back into the scabbard.

Regards,
Stu