Collection of 1

[SteveH]

Hello All
I've finally bought my first SA dagger (wanted one for years, but never got round to it)
I have read this forum with great interest and it appears that Ren-Wax is the correct route to go down with regards to treating the blade....ordered !!
But what about the conservation/treatment for the rest of the dagger....... scabbard, crossguards and wooden handle?
What would you Blokes in the know recommend ?
I am very new to all this so I'm sorry to ask naive questions but any advice will be gratefully received.

Cheers

[Nick VR]

My biggest recomendation to someone who is new to the dagger collecting world would be: "If the dagger is still in decent shape dont touch it". Yust put it in your collection room and look at it...

In my early days I once removed a original knotted Kriegsmarine pommel, needless to say I never got it back on...

[SwordFish]

Renwax or other museum grade wax can be used to treat everything from the dagger blade, fittings, grip, scabbard, leather hangers, etc. The wax is a preservative, as opposed to a cleaning agent. I use it religiously.

There are a few exceptions however. Do not use the product on hand painted items, for example sake cup and sake bottles. The wax has some type of petroleum compound. The petro will remove delicate paint on the item.

As far as cleaning, agents like Semichrome are good, but extreme caution must be employed to prevent damaging the pieces crossgraining, patina, etc. Sudsy amonia is a favorite of collectors as well. Gentle, non abrisive, but care must be excercised as well to avoid wetting internal pieces like grip plaster, or the wooden grip on an SA/SS. Every collector has his/her own way, and really, it's a learning process. Like stated in the previous post, if the piece is in good shape, and you have an ample storage medium that is climate controlled and you are dilligent wiping it down after handling it, you can probably get away without using anything to preserve it.

[simply daggers]

SA Dagger

Congratulations Steve on your first SA Dagger, I remember mine , it was a tatty one by C.G. Haenel but I loved it.

I concur with the others if it is in good condition I would leave it alone .
Dirty blades can be improved with semichrome. I like to use a 'Finishing wax' on my SA grips that are tired . It gives them a protective coating and rejuvinates the tired dry wood..

Perhaps you could post a few pictures on the forum , or to me at usdales@tiscali.co.uk and advice can be given on what to preserve it with.

Best wishes,
Ian

Simplydaggers

[Anthony N]

Congratulations
As for Renwax, well there ain't any harm in it to be honest, it just gives the item a seal against dust & moisture which can only be a good thing. When you think of the stuff that the British Museum treats with it then an SA Dagger will be fine. As said before all parts of the dagger can be treated.
I treated an SA dagger & a HJ knife with it a year or so ago & all is fine. I have others i never gor around to treating.
if possible would love to see pictures.
Welcome to the adiction!

[zander]

Steve we all start with one trouble is that becomes two and so on and on and on

[SwordFish]

Generally speaking, Renwax is safe. HOWEVER, read what I wrote. I know this from experience. There are some limits to the product, as can be expected with any cleansing or preservation agent.

SD, I know what you mean about your KM piece. I once dissassembled a 2nd Luft, which I shouldn't have and had no need to, and well, just like you, the pommel didn't work no more. A big oops. We've discussed the topic time and time again. Don't take the pieces down simply for exploratory purposes. Sure we have to learn from doing, but the lessons can be expensive.

Good luck and welcome to edged weapons. Feed the addiction

[pvluger]

Yeah Steve,

Renwax, nothing more....a very hearty WELCOME!

[LH 600]

Who sells renwax ?

I have not try that before

Regards Lh 600

Congrats with new SA Steve

[Paul R.]

Hold on fellas. I'm a conservator at a large museum. I would advise only to Ren Wax your blades and nothing more. Yes, The can say's you can coat anything an almost eat it too...(JUST kIDDING) I would not apply it to any wood handles. especially SS handles. On these handles I have seen the Ren Wax greyish white do in part to the chemical used to blacken the handle. Also if another owner applied some sort of wood cleaner. That could cause a turn in color.
Wood needs to breath. We only apply Ren Wax on wood that has been damaged. It is also a good idea to keep the humidity to a safe level. It's best to keep the blade out of the scabbard.

VISIT THE CONSERVATION AREA FROM TIME TO TIME. POST YOU QUESATIONS THERE

[SwordFish]

Guys, just remember, Renwax is petroleum based. The very composition poses some problems. It's a great product, just not for everything (the sake bottles/cups have been my most negative experience). I can probably dig up some before and after photos of a few IJA/IJN pieces which illustrate what i'm speaking to. The Kanji came "write" off after application of the product. Clearly as a result of the base petroleum in the product.

Still though, at the end of the day, I DO rave about the product. It's hands down the best preservative on the market that i've used...especially for metals. I will say as a tertiary result of application to my sabers grip wire, after cleaning and subsequent hand buffing, it really makes the celluloid grip nice and shiny...but not grotesquely.....sabers are a different ball of "wax" and I don't want to digress and get too far off topic

[SteveH]

Thanks to everybody who replied....much appreciated.
I think I'll Renwax the metalwork and leave the wooden grip alone.
I would like to have posted a few pictures of my new aquisition but sorry to say can't work out how to do it !
Already looking for my next purchase...daren't tell the wife !!!